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Did Sig change the recoil spring design??

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Hello everyone. I added an M18 to the collection this weekend and disassembled it for the first time today. Upon installing the slide back onto the frame, I ran into a problem in that the slide would not go back far enough to engage the slide lock. Upon searching the web and this forum, I found that the recoil spring should be oriented so that the FLAT sides are oriented VERTICALLY on the barrel lug. Well, I made sure to install it like that and the slide just will not go back all the way. I decided to orient it the other way, with the FLAT sides HORIZONTAL and it went back together just fine and the slide functions perfectly. This contradicts every how to video or forum posting of how to install the recoil spring. Did Sig change the design?

As you can see in the pictures, with the spring oriented with the FLAT sides VERTICLE, the rod is crooked with the slide as far back as it will go (which is just before the slide lock can engage). However, when oriented with the FLAT sides HORIZONTAL, the slide goes all the way back and the rod is straight.

Anyone want to compare theirs (especially if its new)?

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I always put the flat on the flat of the barrel lug.
Right, and thats what makes sense, but everything I've read online said that the rounded part needs to be on the barrel lug. Maybe Sig realized it made more sense to have the flat against the lug and changed it. Unfortunately, there is not much information in the manual that shows how to orient it.
 

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Right, and thats what makes sense, but everything I've read online said that the rounded part needs to be on the barrel lug. Maybe Sig realized it made more sense to have the flat against the lug and changed it. Unfortunately, there is not much information in the manual that shows how to orient it.
I think the whole design is stupid. It's the only gun I've seen where orientation on the barrel matters.
 

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I haven't seen one like that... but yes, they have changed them a couple times.

Two of the versions have the flat spots on the sides
Another version (yours) has the flat spots on the top
And another has no flat spots

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Insert it so the two holes in it line up vertically. Exactly like you’re holding it in the last picture. The original RSA had two long flat sides that would line up vertically. That’s the way the Owners Manual says to align it, yes it is in the Sig P320 manual on reassembly. Sig changed it to be more oval removing the long flat sides leaving only the real short flat on the top and bottom.
But both have a pair of holes one near the top and one at the bottom.

If you put the RSA end in the front of the FCU it will only fit in with the narrowest part of the RSA on the sides, if they’re on the top and bottom it won’t fit. If you force reassembly this way you WILL jam up the gun.
 

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I always put the flat on the flat of the barrel lug.
That's incorrect on all but the more recent RSAs. The correct method has always been to keep the narrower part of the flange "on the cross axis and pointing at the slide rails". Think of it as providing clearance to the slide rails.

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I spoke with Sig customer service today about my three P320 with 3.9 barrels and they have three version I was told, but latest and greatest has brass on one end and NO double wire and guess what I don't have that version, I asked for warranty replacement on my first two a Scorpion AXG RXP and two tone AXG RXP and was told Sig would replace them.

The 3rd one I put together a custom P320 and ordered at the time online was a double coil spring on barrel end but that has since been upgraded and since I ordered it myself, I didn't ask sig to replace since it seem to work better than the other two P320.

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That's incorrect on all but the more recent RSAs. The correct method has always been to keep the narrower part of the flange "on the cross axis and pointing at the slide rails". Think of it as providing clearance to the slide rails.

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otherwise the base plate of the RSA won't fit inside the FCU to rest on the TD lever when you go to reassemble.
 

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Here is a picture from the Sig-Sauer web site of one for "the P320 Compact or XCARRY/CARRY pistols" 9/40/357 with the brass (or copper?) end piece.

SIG SAUER P320C/CA Recoil Spring Assembly 9/40/357 Corrosion resistant

It does kinda make me feel like a Sig-Sauer Beta Tester. My new P320/M18 has a different design. Is there something wrong with mine? Is this one better? Should I buy one of these? It is only $39.99! Will my P320/M18 explode if I don't buy one? (The answer is I will wait and see. If anyone knows why Sig-Sauer changed the design -- and I guess it could just be a different supplier, or maybe this one is cheaper to make but no better, etc. -- please let the thread know).

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Agree. And they may change parts suppliers from time to time. And they apparently do unannounced "rolling changes" to improve a pistol for a variety of reasons.

There is no indication there is anything wrong with the different recoil spring on my P320/M18.

But now I am curious about the point behind the brass or copper end on the recoil spring -- I wonder what the reason is for that? I haven't seen anything like that on other company's recoil spring assemblies.
 

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I have seen and stock a few different assemblies. Some small round, some oval, some larger with flat sides, some smaller with flat sides. Ine thing that is the same is they all worked.
I’m seeing that as well I’ve got two different designs in my three P320’s and both work as designed. Brass end RS is latest design per sig custom service when I spoke them.
 

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Ok, I thought there were four versions... but maybe there are only three versions.

The nice thing about the newest version is that it does not matter the orientation when installed like the previous ones.
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Ok, I thought there were four versions... but maybe there are only three versions.

The nice thing about the newest version is that it does not matter the orientation when installed like the previous ones.
Okay this is incredibly helpful with the pictures, thank you. On a related note, anyone know the difference between the braided springs and the solid ones? It seems that the braided ones run smoother, but I don't know.
 

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Okay this is incredibly helpful with the pictures, thank you. On a related note, anyone know the difference between the braided springs and the solid ones? It seems that the braided ones run smoother, but I don't know.
I’ve got two single wire RS I believe to be 1.0v and I put together a 3rd P320 and ordered at the time was a braided wire and it runs smoother than my other two single wires, I called Sig and was asking about a RS for my P250 and then we got into a discussion about my three P320 and that when he told me latest version was the one with brass cap on one end. It took some coaching but finally got him to agree to send me two new ones because my other two did not operate very well or as smooth in my high-end P320.
 
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