SIG Talk banner

21 - 40 of 43 Posts

·
Resident Armorer Premium Member
Joined
·
10,827 Posts
The lack of the official Sig CALX-226-9-BSS from the list is interesting.
I'm a newbie, I'll admit it. Reading previous threads on Sigtalk was also interesting about this subject.
That's because this is a "barrel" list to fit a pre-existing slide, to change calibers, while a Caliber X-Change Kit, is just that... a kit including the barrel and appropriate slide.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I saw a NIB 9mm caliber x-change kit on ebay for cheap for cheap so I bought it. I needed new sights anyway, the SIGLITEs on the original slide had dimmed.

Yesterday I installed a GG curved double adjustable trigger, also on my P229. Easy peasy. I also replaced the slide catch because the original would not lock back with the 9mm magazines I have. I haven't shot them yet, my range is in the same place I hunt deer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Sorry a little older thread but just joined. I recently got a Barsto 9 conversion barrel too and totally agree with Newbie. What I did to keep things straight for me is got a a stainless guide rod and 3 nickel mec gar mags so when i am shooting the 9 it all matches visually. Just the way my mind works to keep it all sorted out and not use wrong ammo. Barrel was tighter than the standard 40 barrel (sig seems to have more tolerances built in than you would think) but did not have to file it down any to this point. I may have to eventually shave a little off of bottom of feed ramp as when I disassemble the slide wants to hang up from coming off. Think the bottom of the ramp is just a milimeter or so too much and hits the block but with a little push it comes out..
 

·
Resident Armorer Premium Member
Joined
·
10,827 Posts
Sorry a little older thread but just joined. I recently got a Barsto 9 conversion barrel too and totally agree with Newbie. What I did to keep things straight for me is got a a stainless guide rod and 3 nickel mec gar mags so when i am shooting the 9 it all matches visually. Just the way my mind works to keep it all sorted out and not use wrong ammo. Barrel was tighter than the standard 40 barrel (sig seems to have more tolerances built in than you would think) but did not have to file it down any to this point. I may have to eventually shave a little off of bottom of feed ramp as when I disassemble the slide wants to hang up from coming off. Think the bottom of the ramp is just a milimeter or so too much and hits the block but with a little push it comes out..
You should look at allowing the barrel to tilt up a little higher in the ejection port. A couple of strokes with a stone would likely be all you need... not so much to the "rear", but "downward" where shown, this is a .357 Sig barrel which had the same "drag" you are describing. Look for burnishing marks on your barrel in this location, that will show you where contact is made. A couple of passes with a stone, and recheck for fit, remember, a little at a time!

bblfitting.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: TerminalSigness

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,354 Posts
In a classic P-series, you will always have contact between the bottom of the barrel feed ramp and the top of the locking insert.

Willard's advise is sound.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
Thanks Willard
I looked at the pistol again and going to start with stoning a very small amount off bottom of feed ramp. That looks to be the most wet marks. See pic feed ramp bottom and block wear.

View attachment 381471
Don’t do that. The feed ramp is NOT too long. The barrel just needs to sit higher in the slide. An incorrectly fitted barrel affects POA/POI. Take the material off of the top, not the bottom. Look at Willards photo, and follow his advice. Ignore good advice at your own peril.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,354 Posts
How significant is the difference between the 40 and 9 when mounting/removing the slide ?
 

·
Resident Armorer Premium Member
Joined
·
10,827 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
How significant is the difference between the 40 and 9 when mounting/removing the slide ?
When removing the slide I've got give a little arm push to get the slide to come off since. It's definitely the bottom of the feed ramp contacting the block. When the 40 barrel is in it slides off freely and yes there is intential friction on the bottom of the feed ramp on that barrel too but not like the 9.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Remember the top of the barrel doesn't "slide" in that area, only rising, and dropping into, and out of the ejection port. The ramp does slide on the Locking Insert naturally.

This animation helps to understand... ✳ Classic Line Pistols - How they work in animation | SIG Talk
Williard there is a flat collar up near the barrel chamber, I'm assuming thats the part i can hit with a stone to start with as opposed to starting with the underside of the feed ramp?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,354 Posts
Williard there is a flat collar up near the barrel chamber, I'm assuming thats the part i can hit with a stone to start with as opposed to starting with the underside of the feed ramp?
Can you post a pic so we can be sure, but yes, that sounds like the spot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Thanks TF

Please see attached pic of the Barsto Barrel. The collar on the barrel has a flat spot on top as I circled on top. This is what I am thinking would need to be filed down based on recommendation. The barrel chamber portion that fits in the ejection port is almost the exactly same dimension (within .003") of my 40 factory barrel front to back.

381513
 

·
Resident Armorer Premium Member
Joined
·
10,827 Posts
Yep, that's it, and please don't use a file! If nothing else, get a small India (Aluminum Oxide) sharpening stone, as stainless is tough to machine with cutters, which a file actually is, plus leaves a smoother surface.
 
21 - 40 of 43 Posts
Top