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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Hoppes#9
Birchwood Casey bore scrubber
Remoil/Teflon
TW25B
Mobile 1
Applications vary depending on which firearm.
I've been wanting to try the Lucas, just haven't found any around here, probably should check that internet web thing. :unsure:
Yes, the inter webs can be good for things such as that. I’m interested in the Mobile 1 usage. How are you using it for firearms and is it working well for you?
 

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Yes, the inter webs can be good for things such as that. I’m interested in the Mobile 1 usage. How are you using it for firearms and is it working well for you?
It maintains lubrication on high velocity metal to metal parts, also on the Sig P229 as well as other firearms where the recoil spring wraps the barrel it maintains very good lubrication under high heat. On most firearms the barrel is the only place that gets extremely hot. The exception being gas tubes and ports.
 

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It maintains lubrication on high velocity metal to metal parts, also on the Sig P229 as well as other firearms where the recoil spring wraps the barrel it maintains very good lubrication under high heat. On most firearms the barrel is the only place that gets extremely hot. The exception being gas tubes and ports.
I didn't mean to say it that way! I meant where the spring wraps the tube under the barrel is a high heat situation. I had in my head the reason I started using it years ago was for my pocket Browning 380 with the spring wrapped Barrel!...Soooo sorry for the idiotic statement 🤪
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I use Hoppies #9 then I use CLP to get what every #9 doesn't get and then use the CLP to preserve the bore when I put it up. also I clean them after range time and every 6 months I'll take them out and look them over
Hoppes #9 seems to still have a large following. I’ve never used it before. One can’t argue the longevity of the brand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I didn't mean to say it that way! I meant where the spring wraps the tube under the barrel is a high heat situation. I had in my head the reason I started using it years ago was for my pocket Browning 380 with the spring wrapped Barrel!...Soooo sorry for the idiotic statement 🤪
No worries!
 

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I usually use Ballistol or some other CLP product. Sometimes a dedicated bore cleaner. Afterwards, I apply the SIG Sauer “High Definition” gun grease. I’ve tried a lot of different grease types and that one is my favorite. Everything I tried that was similar to it would separate too much. Slide Glide was fantastic, but too messy for my liking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
It maintains lubrication on high velocity metal to metal parts, also on the Sig P229 as well as other firearms where the recoil spring wraps the barrel it maintains very good lubrication under high heat. On most firearms the barrel is the only place that gets extremely hot. The exception being gas tubes and ports.
Ok, that’s solid reasoning. About how long have you been using the Mobile 1? To be totally transparent, I’ve heard of people using it. It makes a lot of sense but, I’m having a hard time making the leap to use it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I usually use Ballistol or some other CLP product. Sometimes a dedicated bore cleaner. Afterwards, I apply the SIG Sauer “High Definition” gun grease. I’ve tried a lot of different grease types and that one is my favorite. Everything I tried that was similar to it would separate too much. Slide Glide was fantastic, but too messy for my liking.
Ok cool, I’ve never heard of the Sig high definition grease before. The TW25b works really well from my perspective but I’m up for trying new (to me) products.
 

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Ok, that’s solid reasoning. About how long have you been using the Mobile 1? To be totally transparent, I’ve heard of people using it. It makes a lot of sense but, I’m having a hard time making the leap to use it myself.
I started using it as engine assembly Lube way back when it was invented. Hard to see when I started on the guns, but I use it on almost everything that has moving parts, it's excellent stuff. For engine oil is quite expensive, however for house old lubricant it's rather cheap compared to others. Used it on my garage door rollers last month!
 

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I use my own variation of Ed's Red for solvent.
For oil I use Clenzoil.
For grease I use Mobil1 synthetic. I load some into a small syringe and use a small gauge blunt needle to apply (very sparingly) to the channel in the slide. Makes less of a mess that way.
 

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Also there's this, not that it applies to anything being discussed here, other than Maybe some of you guys out there get pretty grubby working on cars or whatnot. Liquid Tide w Downey laundry detergent is the best hand cleaner I've ever used hands down! I discovered that by accident and Desperation having nothing else around the house one particular day. That's all I use now. And after further experimentation found it to be most excellent engine degreaser! Mix it one part to eight parts water in a spray bottle on a cold engine let it set for a half hour or so it will blow your mind how clean it gets with standard water hose pressure.
 

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Another lube thread? Okay, here goes. As others already posted, grease the sliding stuff and oil the rotating bits.
Any lubricant that comes in a small package, that has a reference to guns on it, is gonna be priced at least 20 times more than it's worth. Many folks think that gun lubrication is uniquely demanding - - it isn't. Save the vegetable oil Frog Lube for lubricating your favorite frog. I used to use Mobil 1 for most everything, including guns, but it seems to separate (oil from thickener) much faster than most. Far cleaner and convenient is Super Lube synthetic grease and oil. I've used it for years due to it's broad temperature range and no mess. The Sig Armorer, Robert Burke, does as well.
 

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Clean with M-Pro 7 gun cleaner, Super Lube grease on the rails, Super Lube oil on the other areas.
 

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Ok cool, I’ve never heard of the Sig high definition grease before. The TW25b works really well from my perspective but I’m up for trying new (to me) products.
I can't remember what TW25 looked like when I used it. It was too long ago. Does it separate?

The "HD" grease used to come in those black and white tubes in the factory box with German guns. It's kind of hard to find unless you buy a German gun with the box and all the accessories. But I think a member on here or on the other forum (green) found out what the actual product was since SIG DE did not produce it themselves. They just repackaged it in their own tubes with the SIG brand name. I'll see if I can find that thread somewhere.

SLIP 2000 also has a pretty good grease. Still separates a little more than I'd like.

Next up on my list to try out are Super Lube and the aluminum Lubriplate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I started using it as engine assembly Lube way back when it was invented. Hard to see when I started on the guns, but I use it on almost everything that has moving parts, it's excellent stuff. For engine oil is quite expensive, however for house old lubricant it's rather cheap compared to others. Used it on my garage door rollers last month!
Ok right on, multipurpose. I like the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I can't remember what TW25 looked like when I used it. It was too long ago. Does it separate?

The "HD" grease used to come in those black and white tubes in the factory box with German guns. It's kind of hard to find unless you buy a German gun with the box and all the accessories. But I think a member on here or on the other forum (green) found out what the actual product was since SIG DE did not produce it themselves. They just repackaged it in their own tubes with the SIG brand name. I'll see if I can find that thread somewhere.

SLIP 2000 also has a pretty good grease. Still separates a little more than I'd like.

Next up on my list to try out are Super Lube and the aluminum Lubriplate.
TW25b does separate a little if you let it set in your cleaning kit for a while. You’ll need to shake it a little before applying it. However once applied, it works well and stays in place even after a range session.
 

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I clean my P226 MK25 and P365XL Romeo Zero after each use so that it is in perfect condition when I need to use either. I was taught that you clean your firearm after shooting and before you do anything else.
I have recently changed my cleaning protocol. I was a Hoppes fan for years then went to Cleanzoil for the last year, and I like it a lot but, I recently switched to EEZOX as the cleaner. I am in the trial phase right now as I have only used it for the last month. It seems to have really good cleaning properties and certainly leaves a slicker feel on the metal parts. EEZOX had a good pedigree and it's very easy to use. I still add EEZOX to the rails and barrel as added ensurance against metal to metal wear. Sigs are well made and can be generational firearms if you care for them.
 
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