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130 Posts
I usually just leave the foamy aerosol Break Free to sit in the barrel while I concentrate on the rest of the gun.
Classic P Series Pistols. How Do YOU Maintain them?
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Joined
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130 Posts
Holy quotes, Batman.
If there is a noticeable price difference, it's probably because the black labels are older stock with older (and lower) prices. The white labels are newer stock and everything is more expensive now.
The whole rotating/sliding thing is basically an old wives tale.
If a part is rotating, then it is sliding. Grease is also just oil with soap addatives. It's main advantage is it stays in place better, and it is better at avoiding water intrusion.
Your engine in your car has both rotating and reciprocating parts, and it's all lubes with oil
Meanwhile your rotating wheel bearings are lubed by grease.
Either will lube a gun fine. I use grease on my sigs because it stays put longer.
Soli Deo Gloria
Joined
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3,304 Posts
Mobile One!
I clean with Hoppes 9
I oil with Lucas Extreme Duty
I grease with TW25B
On all my firearms High Powers, 1911’s, CZ’s, etc.
I’ve found my original P226’s and P229’s came with little packs of TW25B and my NEW P320’s come with TW25B on the slide rails so I’m just following Sigs lead.
I oil with Lucas Extreme Duty
I grease with TW25B
On all my firearms High Powers, 1911’s, CZ’s, etc.
I’ve found my original P226’s and P229’s came with little packs of TW25B and my NEW P320’s come with TW25B on the slide rails so I’m just following Sigs lead.
Joined
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320 Posts
I'm not generally a fan of CLP, at least when used as a CLP. Products designed to be jack of all trades generally aren't that great at any of them. For instance, BF CLP works OK as a cleaner but sucks as a lube IMO
I still use Hoppes #9 for cleaning. Works better for actually cleaning then anything else I've tried. One exception to that is when I clean my AR's, I use a 50/50 mix of CLP and Mineral spirts to soak my AR BCG's in. What I do is, I start by disassembling my AR, then disassemble the BCG. I take all the parts of the BCG and soak them in that 50/50 mix. Then I clean the barrel and the rest of the gun (and any other guns I need to clean). After I'm done with the rest of the guns I'm cleaning, I take the BCG parts out, give them a quick scrub then wipe them clean, lube and reassemble.
For lube, I like Mobil1 Synthetic Oil but only on guns were rust isn't really a concern (AR-15's, Glocks). I like it cause it stays in place and doesn't evaporate like CLP and some other lubes do.
When rust is more of a concern, I've been using either EWL Slip2000 or Lucas Extreme Gun Oil. Haven't really picked a favorite between the 2 but leaning towards the Lucas Oil product.
I have used gun grease in the past on occasion for slide rails but never really saw any added benefit to doing so I don't generally do that anymore. Still use it on occasion for FCG parts or during the assembly of some guns/parts.
I still use Hoppes #9 for cleaning. Works better for actually cleaning then anything else I've tried. One exception to that is when I clean my AR's, I use a 50/50 mix of CLP and Mineral spirts to soak my AR BCG's in. What I do is, I start by disassembling my AR, then disassemble the BCG. I take all the parts of the BCG and soak them in that 50/50 mix. Then I clean the barrel and the rest of the gun (and any other guns I need to clean). After I'm done with the rest of the guns I'm cleaning, I take the BCG parts out, give them a quick scrub then wipe them clean, lube and reassemble.
For lube, I like Mobil1 Synthetic Oil but only on guns were rust isn't really a concern (AR-15's, Glocks). I like it cause it stays in place and doesn't evaporate like CLP and some other lubes do.
When rust is more of a concern, I've been using either EWL Slip2000 or Lucas Extreme Gun Oil. Haven't really picked a favorite between the 2 but leaning towards the Lucas Oil product.
I have used gun grease in the past on occasion for slide rails but never really saw any added benefit to doing so I don't generally do that anymore. Still use it on occasion for FCG parts or during the assembly of some guns/parts.
Joined
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544 Posts
Well, the Wankel in my RX-7 goes "wrrrrrrr" (not "chug-chug-chug-chug"). No reciprocating parts!
rx7sig
Joined
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109 Posts
I rarely "clean" mine. Just wipe with a paper towel on the rails and slide. Slop more grease on the rails and squirt CLP everywhere else that needs it. I'll slide a CLP soaked patch in the bore and call ot a year lol. I have never had a malfunction with my P226, just got my P229 so time will tell. I shoot several thousand rounds a year. These guns are just beasts.
Joined
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28 Posts
I use:
- Hoppe's No. 9 for cleaning
- Rem Oil for general lube
- White lithium grease for rails. I like to use grease for rails as opposed to oil becuase it stays put. I like to use white lithium beacuse it is cheap, way cheaper than specialist gun grease, and beacuse the white grease shows up against the black rails. It is easy to see how much you are putting on, and if you have even coverage.
Joined
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326 Posts
I use Hoppies #9 then I use CLP to get what every #9 doesn't get and then use the CLP to preserve the bore when I put it up. also I clean them after range time and every 6 months I'll take them out and look them over
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194 Posts
1) I appreciate the discussion on cleaning agents and lubricants. But I want to point out that frequent field stripping is counterproductive. If you need to remove sand, so be it. But any gun used for EDC should be happy running with moderate powder and copper fouling. The sweet spot is to clean that stuff just before it is a problem. Of course, that requires experience and judgement.
Now, I'm not talking about your S&W Model 41 .22LR target model, or your 1,000 meter 6.5. rifle. I'm talking about your P226 or 1911. Even that one with midnight black finish and shiny silver control levers and mag release ;-)
You know who you are....
In Iraq, I field stripped my M9 weekly due to sand, and my Steyr AUG rarely. On a later deployment, I cleaned my M4 and M9 after the rare range sessions only. I found the most return on effort was cleaning and CLPing magazines, which were dirt magnets. Haven't seen that mentioned here.
I fully understand the attraction of cleaning and loving that customized, high-end show-room model of a pistol, but more guns have been ruined by too much love than by too much service.
2) Any discussion of cleaning, lubricating, and protecting firearms should be directed at the environment of the firearm's use and storage. I grew up in Florida and everything rusted quickly. After moving to New Mexico's mountains a few decades ago, I found that a blued rifle or pistol can be wiped down with CLP and stored in the safe with no particular attention for more than a year without oxidizing.
3) Free medical tip - I found that my handling of firearms never caused fingerprint rust, because I'm on a low-sodium diet. But if friends on the typical high sodium diet handled them, I had to do a BreakFree wipe-down immediately or I would have fingerprint oxidation on them within a day or two.
Think about it for a moment. And no defensiveness!
Joined
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60 Posts
EDC
P229 Legion 9mm
Use CLP "Moss Oak" and/or "Extreme"
Due to the hot climate environment here, need to wipe down exterior every couple of days due to sweat / clothing residue.
Add a few drops of oil to the slide and working parts before range
Cleans and maintains satisfactory to date.
Joined
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393 Posts
Right on, an EDC needs constant attention. What kind of gun oil do you use? Does it migrate too badly with high temps during the summer? I use Lucas Extreme Duty gun oil and it pretty much stays in place. There’s a little migration but it’s not bad.
Joined
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393 Posts
Right on, that is a nice pistol for sure. I’m waiting on a P220 Legion to arrive shortly.
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