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Beginner Reloader

1659 Views 21 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  EddienFL
OK Guys, take it easy on me. I am looking at getting into reloading and have no idea as to where to start. I reloaded 40yr ago when I was shooting a lot of 41mag. I am in the process of putting together an AR platform in .458 SOCOM. I am going to have to handhold to get the rounds I want & to be able to afford to shoot much:oops:. There is a possibility that I may reload some .454 Casull and possibly. 41mag. I am most likely going to be going with a single stage press. I am open to all suggestions and recommendations.

Please feel kind and take it easy on me.

Thanks
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A couple of recommendations.

First, find a locally taught NRA Metallic Cartridge Reloading course. When taught by an experienced reloading instructor, or team of reloading instructors the materials and background can be very helpful - and especially before you go out and buy equipment. It will save you more than the cost of the course, and help you become a much safer reloader.

Next, start with reloading some straight wall pistol cartridges first. Pick .45acp if you have this caliber pistol because they are lower pressure. Get down your process and learn your equipment on a caliber that you can become comfortable with first. Then add the more challenging rifle caliber cartridges and larger caliber revolver cartridges.

A single stage press is much better to start out on. You'll develop a reliable process, and spend less initially on the equipment.

As you study the course, you'll learn that the reloading manuals are NOT recipe books. They are documentation of measured experiments that the product manufactures perform under controlled conditions. That means that you don't vary from them unless you plan on performing your own experiments. If you do that, you should also have the proper measuring equipment - which is relatively expensive. Instrumented chambers and computer based pressure measuring and recording equipment. It's much easier to follow the manuals and stay safely within what they have already documented.

That is why there are multiple manuals. The manufacturers tend to only experiment with what they sell. Powder manufacturers publish manuals on their own powder using multiple manufacturer's bullets. Bullet manufacturers publish manuals using multiple powder manufacturer's powders, etc...

I personally prefer reloading equipment from Lyman and Hornady. RCBS is OK and I have some LEE.

You can also build some things for yourself...

Here's something I built for my progressive press to count completed cartridges:


And a LED light I added to illuminate the powder level in my progressive press:

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I’d recommend a Dillon 650/750. When loading for any semi auto platform you may want more production. However if a single stage is necessary.
Ive used and liked the Redding Boss. As far as dies . You can’t go wrong with a Lee deluxe 4 die set. You can spend more but there’s really no need. You can always upgrade if you so desire down the road. If you are serious then here’s the basics
Press
Dies
case tumbler and media
Media seperator
Calipers
Powder scale
Powder trickler or powder scoop - if you want to go very slow - powder throw if you want to speed things up
Brass
Primers
Powder
Bullets
A case gauge is nice to have as well
Reloading manual
Hope this helps.
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Gun and or reloading forums are not the place to get load data. If you have talked with some people that are loading the same caliber of your interest. And they say they are getting good results with a bullet and or powder. Get those reloading manuals and read the data yourself. I like to cross reference powder and bullet manufacturer reloading manuals if possible. So I'd say buy books first and start reading.
Like mrerick said look for a class. Check LGS and clubs for that NRA class. I'd also start with a single stage press to learn the process also. There is a lot of moving parts and going on with a progressive press.
Now if you have been planning to get into reloading I hope you have been saving your brass. Also think about how you plan to clean that brass. You can do wet or dry tumblers. You can probably get started on that. Do some research and reading.
For the money I like this.

I prefer this to the spinner thing that cost more. This and a HD or Lowes bucket gtg.


Some corn cob media and polish gtg.


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I agree with Weez556 - "get yourself some books (reloading manuals) and start reading." The Speer Reloading Manual is great place to start. In addition to very close to what your reloads will be it has all the other info you need to be a well educated reloader. Do yourself a favor and gain most of your reloading knowledge from the books created by ballistitions (sp) who have spent years putting loads and combinations together. They, and their lawyers, have your safety in mind. Remember, everything you read on the internet and forums is to be taken with a grain of salt.
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I’d be willing to bet 99.9% of reloaders never took a class. I didn’t even know that was a thing. Not that it’s necessarily a bad idea, but reloading isn’t rocket science. I think with a manual you’ll be fine .

I bought the Lee reloaders guide which is all I needed to get started.
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454 and 41 will be very easy to reload. Straight wall cartridges are easy mode. A basic hornady or RCBS kit will get you started with single stage reloading. I like Hornady for single stage. Thier lock and load bushing system for the dies is a great benefit. Lots of good used reloading gear on the market. Most will be older but will work well to get you started. Just get a nice pair of digital calibers. A digital scale is nice too.

Dillon reloaders are great for a progressive set up. However doesn’t sound like you want to go there
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Great suggestions so far. I'll suggest organization and documentation along with a helpful machine.

I pick up and bag my brass with the box I shot it from. I keep load/bullet info and keep track of how many times I fired it and note any case trimming. I can decide when to get rid of it before any issues arise. Cases do stretch so you need to measure them and trim to length when they get too long.

I'll clean different manufacturer brass at the same time. In the event of same brand/caliber brass with different firings, I'll clean each lot separately so my firing/case trimming info remains correct.

To make primer pocket, case trimming and deburring easier, I use a Frankfort Arsenal Platinum case prep machine.

Camera accessory Gas Machine Auto part Military robot



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I’d be willing to bet 99.9% of reloaders never took a class. I didn’t even know that was a thing. Not that it’s necessarily a bad idea, but reloading isn’t rocket science. I think with a manual you’ll be fine .
I bought the Lee reloaders guide which is all I needed to get started.
Yeah, I spent a Saturday learning to load with my brother-in-law ... he had learned from older neighbor. We spent the day loading .38 spec, and then switched to 30.06. The next week I traded a Winchester Model 12, 12ga at an LGS for a complete Lyman T-Mag press, dies, scale, powder measure and some accessories. They also threw in enough bullets, powder and primers to get me going. I also picked up every loading manual I could lay my hands on.

I've loaded many thousand .38, .357, .44, .45acp and few 30.06 over the years and still have all the gear I got in 1980 and it's all being used and works perfectly. I've added a few new pieces here and there but I can still roll out some pretty good ammo on my old school gear.
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Get powder manufacturer's data for their powder. Use the powder manufacturer's data to verify loading manual data. Things change at the factory and may not be picked up by the loading manuals. Also, loading manuals can have typos. Cross checking the data can save you. Then always examine brass for signs of excessive pressure on a new batch of reloads.

Bill
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Get a couple quality reloading manuals, do not stray from published load data.
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A lot of great suggestions, but I would also add that you should check primer and powder availability in your area before you spend $$$ on a press. In my area both of these items are scarce with uncertain availability.
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A lot of great suggestions, but I would also add that you should check primer and powder availability in your area before you spend $$$ on a press. In my area both of these items are scarce with uncertain availability.
I started out with a Lee breech lock kit/rig and Lee carbide dies. I've probably loaded 15-20 thousand rounds, sized bullets loaded rifle and pistol. It's never let me down, I also have a Dillon 650 but never discount Lee as it's a good place to start.
JMHO. ;)
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First, I want to thank everyone for the detailed info and the links. It is A LOT of help. I appreciate it more than you will ever know. I will be picking up a couple of manuals this week. Finding a NRA reloading class is becoming a bit difficult. I had been thinking about a single stage, especially for the .454 Casull and the .458 SOCOM since I, most likely, won't be shooting A Lot of these calibers. I have looked at the Dillon 650/750 but not sure if I can justify it right now. When I reloaded. 41mag in the past I had a Lee Progressive press and it was more finicky than my ex wife #2.


454 and 41 will be very easy to reload. Straight wall cartridges are easy mode. A basic hornady or RCBS kit will get you started with single stage reloading. I like Hornady for single stage. Just get a nice pair of digital calibers. A digital scale is nice too.
Is there any reason I need "digital" calipers? I have a couple of nice "dial" caliper as well as a set of 0-6" calipers. (I have a background as a machinist and a draftsman) I already have a nice digital scale and a beam scale. I am sure there are dozens of more toys that I will need.
First, I want to thank everyone for the detailed info and the links. It is A LOT of help. I appreciate it more than you will ever know. I will be picking up a couple of manuals this week. Finding a NRA reloading class is becoming a bit difficult. I had been thinking about a single stage, especially for the .454 Casull and the .458 SOCOM since I, most likely, won't be shooting A Lot of these calibers. I have looked at the Dillon 650/750 but not sure if I can justify it right now. When I reloaded. 41mag in the past I had a Lee Progressive press and it was more finicky than my ex wife #2.
IMO, that is why Dillon's have such a good reputation. They tend to be much more 'set and forget' than most other presses. I have owned 2 Dillons (650 and now an 1100) and they just pound out the rounds. I have an older RCBS progressive also, and while a good loader, I was always having to tweak this or that.
Is there any reason I need "digital" calipers? I have a couple of nice "dial" caliper as well as a set of 0-6" calipers. (I have a background as a machinist and a draftsman) I already have a nice digital scale and a beam scale. I am sure there are dozens of more toys that I will need.
Dial calipers are fine.
Balance beam scales and dial calipers are fine - some would say more trustworthy and less finicky as well. If you reload, a quality single stage press will always be useful. Your progressive press should be BLUE. Not at all finicky, very reliable and backed by a great warranty and customer support.

You can learn to reload well by reading a good reloading manual such as the Lyman. It will also serve as a valuable reference for MANY years to come.

Edit to add: I much prefer non-digital scales and calipers.
First, I want to thank everyone for the detailed info and the links. It is A LOT of help. I appreciate it more than you will ever know. I will be picking up a couple of manuals this week. Finding a NRA reloading class is becoming a bit difficult. I had been thinking about a single stage, especially for the .454 Casull and the .458 SOCOM since I, most likely, won't be shooting A Lot of these calibers. I have looked at the Dillon 650/750 but not sure if I can justify it right now. When I reloaded. 41mag in the past I had a Lee Progressive press and it was more finicky than my ex wife #2.




Is there any reason I need "digital" calipers? I have a couple of nice "dial" caliper as well as a set of 0-6" calipers. (I have a background as a machinist and a draftsman) I already have a nice digital scale and a beam scale. I am sure there are dozens of more toys that I will need.
Need no, I didn’t know your background and just assumed you where a regular guy without that background. Most folks have no idea how to read a set of calipers or micrometers. I will say having the digital read out is nice. Digital calipers are pretty inexpensive now days. Well unless you buy starrett.
Buy a chrono so you can measure shooting your loads. You can compare changes you make to your loads and view the data to know how the changes affect the rounds.
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I tried a Lee progressive loader for a couple days and could never get it tuned to work. Sent it back and got a Lee Classic Turret. I have been using it now for several years. I have turrets for each caliber I load for and just drop it in the press and pour in powder and start loading. No need to adjust anything. I check the first few loads on my balance beam and load. Not as fast as a progressive but I don't need that speed or quantity of ammo. I just do pistol ammo now, 38, 9, 45ACP, and 45 Colt. I use short pieces of white PVC pipe to set my turrets in on my bench when not in the press. I started with a single stage press and then 3 of them lined up on the bench so I wouldn't have to change out the dies. Then the turret. I have put many thousand rounds through it with no problems.
Most single stage presses are good. I like the RCBS and Redding. Definitely do yourself a favor and get an automatic powder throw (RCBS chargemaster lite is fine). My process for precision rifle is size (no i don't clean my brass first), then tumble in white rice to remove lube, chamfer/deburr, prime, throw powder, seat bullet.
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