[Edsel]

Here is a rough draft of some Reckless Bar - Sto Semi - Fit Barrel Fitting, pending some finer points from bumper.

Full Disclosure: While I do have the Bar - Sto DVD, I've simply been too lazy to review its contents :lol:

The problem in coming up with a true step - by - step guide is that significant variation exists in slide - to - barrel lockup. There is simply no way one can guarantee that these parts would align the same way each time with different slides, barrels, and locking blocks / inserts. Many a time, one must simply "wing it!" :lol:

While the underlying principles are largely the same, this barrel was obviously fitted onto a Glock :lol:

Let us begin! Go kaboom at your own risk! :lol:

Attempt to mate the barrel + slide and simulate full battery. Hold it against the light, note where the light shines through, as well as the areas of contact...

There's likely room for a Sharpie or some DyKem® Layout Fluid in this step, prior to forcing some "Witness Marks."

Give the barrel + slide assembly a decent whack to highlight contact points :lol:

Look! Witness Marks! File off the offending areas, a little at a time. While this step may benefit from accurate measurements using a pair of Micrometer Calipers and a Dial Indicator,...

...remember that this Semi - Fit Barrel is being installed onto a loosey - goosey pistol that will noisily sound off clickety - clack when shaken. Personally, this is merely an excercise in firearm fun - with the secondary benefit of extending the handloading life of my brass because of the tight chamber.

Once the rear of the Barrel Hood closely approximates the Breech Face...

...hold it up to the light and see how much material needs to be removed, and where.

If this were a true match pistol, taking accurate measurements in the previous step would probably result in a very uniform gap between the rear of the Barrel Hood and the Breech Face. That is, removing equal amounts from both sides of the rear of the barrel hood would have kept it centered and prevented it from "leaning" to either side of the slide. This obviously isn't the case here, but that doesn't really matter.

Give the barrel another whack.

Look! More Witness Marks!

 

[Edsel]

File off some material from this area to eliminate any spaces allowing light to shine through.

Bettah!

That's the front of the barrel hood up there.

Shoulda labeled the picher properly.

Once the rear of the Barrel Hood plays nicely with the Breech Face, it is likely that only a little bit of material is preventing the front of the barrel hood from fully rising.

Give the barrel another whack.

Look for Witness Marks.

By now, you should have seen a pattern emerging...

Ohmigerd!

Let's whack it a few more times, for good measure!

One!

Two!

Three!

Yesss!

When "riding the slide," it should stop shy of a light tap into full battery; the above shot is simulated and slightly exaggerated.

Assemble the firearm, and attempt to "slingshot" dummy rounds - it should do so without issue, even if the slide was difficult to rack and / or the firearm was difficult to disassemble.

Even though one can rest with the reassurance of having proper tools (hey, that's a nice little Ruby Rod there!)...

NORTON INDIA STONES

NORTON INDIA STONES | Brownells

NORTON PREMIUM HARD ARKANSAS STONES

BROWNELLS NORTON PREMIUM HARD ARKANSAS STONES | Brownells

...the only tool I really used this time was the Ruby Rod as a platform on which I wrapped some 600 grit sandpaper :lol:

Personal Preference: Wet Sanding.

Masking Tape / Painter's Tape eliminates a lot of aggravation from unwanted scratches.

The light surface scratches that result from having inflicted "witness marks" are easily buffed out with 1200 grit sandpaper; again, with wet sanding.

Personal Opinions

1. The best barrels are the ones which don't fit from the get - go.

2. Do not file down too much material to the point wherein the slide is "smooth to rack." The slide must remain difficult to rack, and the pistol must likewise be as difficult to reassemble / disassemble.

3. Fit the barrel to the point wherein a very light tap from a mallet at the appropriate places is required to bring the necessary parts into full battery.

4. Do not polish mating surfaces no matter how much your impulses may demand it.

5. Fire a full cliiip clip clip clip, checking for battery each time - if done right, cycling the weapon by firing will smoothen and polish the relevant parts by peening. Things will "smoothen out" after around two boxes of ammunition.

6. Compared to Glock barrels... Bar - Sto barrels seem very soft.

Speculation

Even if we took material from the rear of the Barrel Hood alone, it's doubtful that any hazardous headspacing issues will occur. Within common sense, it's probably difficult to effect a catastrophic bubbafit, given how Bar - Sto specs their barrels.

Disclaimer

I no be tacticle. I no be alpha sheepdog warrier.

My firearms no be toolz, only toyz :lol:

 

[FLASIG]

Was Dave Barry one of your reptilian assistants ?

 

[TN Paul]

Nicely done and very helpful also.

 

[Sarge1998]

I love the extras you have in place to point out what you are doing...:thumbsu:

 

[bearone2]

have you done the smoke test or is just theory that it'll work??

 

[Edsel]

have you done the smoke test or is just theory that it'll work??

You mean like, some ganjas?

 

[Edsel]

have you done the smoke test or is just theory that it'll work??

SIG M11 - A1 refitted with a P229 Slide (and a poorly - fitting factory SIG barrel): Works, can't remember how many rounds fired.
Glock 17L: Works, somewhere between 200 - 300 rounds.
Glock 24: Works, somewhere between 200 - 300 rounds. My most accurate Bar - Sto setup.
Glock 40: Works, consistent hits out to 100 yards on a torso - sized target through a Trijicon RMR, 410 rounds by now.

Haven't tried the barrel featured in the posts above.

It's a 6" barrel for one of my Glock 24s, in .357 SIG.

 

[Edsel]

I really don't have the proper tools...

No dial indicator.
No vise.
No vertical milling setup.
No lathe.
No heavy oak worktable.

No nothing.

Just a tiny apartment which doesn't have a single load - bearing structure to support my Forster Co - Ax.

Quite honestly, I lack the experience - I'm waiting for bumper to help me out with the finer points of barrel fitting.

Once he chimes in, I'll move the contents of this thread to http://sigtalk.com/sig-sauer-gunsmithing/40974-sig-pistols-mother-all-diy-videos-tips-thread.html

 

[GoneBallisticInAlabama]

Edsel is off his meds again.


:lol:

 

[Edsel]

Edsel is off his meds again.

:lol:

Images of broken light which dance before me like a million eyes,
That call me on and on across the universe,
Thoughts meander like a restless wind inside a letter box they
Tumble blindly as they make their way
Across the universe
Jai guru deva om...

Om...

Om...

 

[DBS]

Your dinosaurs do nice work.

 

[Beefstews]

This is SOOOO Reckless!!!! I like it, especially the time you took walking us through it. Your assistants provided the most insight though.

 

[stlmia]

Probably the best thread I've ever seen.

 

[bumper]

Bumper cannot add much to this . . .

Okay, a couple of thoughts. Edsel said go slow, that's not slow enough, go a little slower than that, take your time. Don't be discouraged if nothing fits to begin with.

Spend the few bucks on a small bottle of DyKem. Amazon sells it in blue or red. Both colors work well but blue is generally handier. Order it when you order your BarSto, you will get the DyKem weeks before the barrel. DyKem works much better than felt tip.

Remove DyKem with alcohol - I use denatured.

I've never treated my SIG like a nail. With DyKem, there's no need to whack anything with a hammer, just fit by hand, the DyKem, when dry, almost wipes off on contact - more finesse than a dinosaur with a hammer

BarSto says the most likely spot to need to remove material is the forward barrel hood lockup edge. On my particular barrel, I needed to remove material from the lug at the top rear of the hood.

Watch the video!

Very good, Edsel!

 

[TN Paul]

Edsel........" Forster Co - Ax" You are Da Man... good loader.