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Here is a rough draft of some Reckless Bar - Sto Semi - Fit Barrel Fitting, pending some finer points from bumper.
Full Disclosure: While I do have the Bar - Sto DVD, I've simply been too lazy to review its contents :lol:
The problem in coming up with a true step - by - step guide is that significant variation exists in slide - to - barrel lockup. There is simply no way one can guarantee that these parts would align the same way each time with different slides, barrels, and locking blocks / inserts. Many a time, one must simply "wing it!" :lol:
While the underlying principles are largely the same, this barrel was obviously fitted onto a Glock :lol:
Let us begin! Go kaboom at your own risk! :lol:
Attempt to mate the barrel + slide and simulate full battery. Hold it against the light, note where the light shines through, as well as the areas of contact...
There's likely room for a Sharpie or some DyKem® Layout Fluid in this step, prior to forcing some "Witness Marks."
Give the barrel + slide assembly a decent whack to highlight contact points :lol:
Look! Witness Marks! File off the offending areas, a little at a time. While this step may benefit from accurate measurements using a pair of Micrometer Calipers and a Dial Indicator,...
...remember that this Semi - Fit Barrel is being installed onto a loosey - goosey pistol that will noisily sound off clickety - clack when shaken. Personally, this is merely an excercise in firearm fun - with the secondary benefit of extending the handloading life of my brass because of the tight chamber.
Once the rear of the Barrel Hood closely approximates the Breech Face...
...hold it up to the light and see how much material needs to be removed, and where.
If this were a true match pistol, taking accurate measurements in the previous step would probably result in a very uniform gap between the rear of the Barrel Hood and the Breech Face. That is, removing equal amounts from both sides of the rear of the barrel hood would have kept it centered and prevented it from "leaning" to either side of the slide. This obviously isn't the case here, but that doesn't really matter.
Give the barrel another whack.
Look! More Witness Marks!
Full Disclosure: While I do have the Bar - Sto DVD, I've simply been too lazy to review its contents :lol:
The problem in coming up with a true step - by - step guide is that significant variation exists in slide - to - barrel lockup. There is simply no way one can guarantee that these parts would align the same way each time with different slides, barrels, and locking blocks / inserts. Many a time, one must simply "wing it!" :lol:
While the underlying principles are largely the same, this barrel was obviously fitted onto a Glock :lol:
Let us begin! Go kaboom at your own risk! :lol:

Attempt to mate the barrel + slide and simulate full battery. Hold it against the light, note where the light shines through, as well as the areas of contact...

There's likely room for a Sharpie or some DyKem® Layout Fluid in this step, prior to forcing some "Witness Marks."

Give the barrel + slide assembly a decent whack to highlight contact points :lol:


Look! Witness Marks! File off the offending areas, a little at a time. While this step may benefit from accurate measurements using a pair of Micrometer Calipers and a Dial Indicator,...
...remember that this Semi - Fit Barrel is being installed onto a loosey - goosey pistol that will noisily sound off clickety - clack when shaken. Personally, this is merely an excercise in firearm fun - with the secondary benefit of extending the handloading life of my brass because of the tight chamber.

Once the rear of the Barrel Hood closely approximates the Breech Face...

...hold it up to the light and see how much material needs to be removed, and where.
If this were a true match pistol, taking accurate measurements in the previous step would probably result in a very uniform gap between the rear of the Barrel Hood and the Breech Face. That is, removing equal amounts from both sides of the rear of the barrel hood would have kept it centered and prevented it from "leaning" to either side of the slide. This obviously isn't the case here, but that doesn't really matter.

Give the barrel another whack.

Look! More Witness Marks!
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