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Welcome. . . . though not a good way to arrive at SigTalk if other options were available!

Others, who know more will be right along. The most likely answer you'll get is to call SIG and send the gun in. This may well be the best approach.

I've heard of similar occurrences with other guns, not the P365, but this may work. The idea is to reach into the guide rod hole and grab the spring - then pull it out of the guide rod hole.

Note though, the spring is strong, you would need an even stronger hook, perhaps 3/32" spring steel (you can heat bend the spring steel rod tight enough and it would not need re-tempering as the hook will be strong enough. Use the hook to capture a turn of the recoil spring as near to the muzzle end as possible, then pull the spring out the hole. In the process, the recoil spring would be destroyed. Since the recoil spring steel is harder than the stainless steel slide, there will be some scratches within the guide rod hole. Those can be easily dressed out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your reply bumper. The spring and guide rod assembly are not in the gun. I assembled the gun without putting the guide rod / spring assembly under the barrel. Now I can't retract the slide far enough to engage the take down lever.
 

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Welcome. . . . though not a good way to arrive at SigTalk if other options were available!

Others, who know more will be right along. The most likely answer you'll get is to call SIG and send the gun in. This may well be the best approach.

I've heard of similar occurrences with other guns, not the P365, but this may work. The idea is to reach into the guide rod hole and grab the spring - then pull it out of the guide rod hole.

Note though, the spring is strong, you would need an even stronger hook, perhaps 3/32" spring steel (you can heat bend the spring steel rod tight enough and it would not need re-tempering as the hook will be strong enough. Use the hook to capture a turn of the recoil spring as near to the muzzle end as possible, then pull the spring out the hole. In the process, the recoil spring would be destroyed. Since the recoil spring steel is harder than the stainless steel slide, there will be some scratches within the guide rod hole. Those can be easily dressed out.

It's a captured recoil spring assy, so it sounds like he assembled the "slide with just the barrel"- onto the pistol?

Hold the pistol upside down, shake it a bit to make sure the barrel is against the underside of the slide (the barrel tip should be flush with the hole in the front of the slide), then with the pistol still inverted, try locking the slide open, so you can then open the TD lever.
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OK let me see if I got this right.
You dropped in the barrel but not the Recoil Spring and now the slide will not go all the way back to lock into place and allow you to turn the Takedown lever to slide off the slide.

I hesitate to do what you did so I am not in the same condition.

1) So when you went to slide the slide on with no recoil spring how far did you get the slide on?
2) When did the Barrel start it's downward movement?
3) Once the slide passes the back of the gun's Grip the barrel starts to slide downward and out the front of the slide.
When the Slide is completely back the barrel is out of the slide and on a angle upwards.

I am thinking that if the slide will not go all the way to the rear and lock into place it is because the Barrel is out of position and not letting the slide travel it's full direction.
Maybe you can manually help position the barrel correctly as the slide goes on.

Without duplicating your dilemma you may want to call Sig.
Hopefully someone else has done what you have and Sig can direct you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks to all. I will try the inverted jiggle method and report results. Again, many thanks for your suggestions and for not saying what you're thinking about a "delta alpha" that put himself into this cluster.
 

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I just did it several times without issue. A couple times it required fiddling with the barrel to help it seat properly. Make sure the barrel travels rearward and seats on the take down lever. You can tell by looking through the ejection port at the feed ramp. The barrel and frame feed ramps need to be in proper normal alignment with barrel tilted. At that point push up on the slide lock, down on take down lever and push slide forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the reply Depalmi, the barrel will not seat on the take down lever because it is captured between the front of slide and the take down lever. The slide will not retract far enough to engage the slide lock.
 

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Thanks for the reply Depalmi, the barrel will not seat on the take down lever because it is captured between the front of slide and the take down lever. The slide will not retract far enough to engage the slide lock.

1) What position is the slide in relative to the grip module- is the muzzle face of the slide even with the front of the grip module- as if in normal state?
2) Is the tip of the barrel flush with the outside face of the slide?
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Lancer5AWM

1) Muzzle face of slide is is aprox 1/4 " in front of rear face of grip module, it is not as if in normal state.
2) Tip of barrle is 1" in front of outside face of slide.

I will post picture asap.
 

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Pull the slide as far back as you can.
Then push it as far forward as it will go.
You should feel resistance from the striker spring.
Maintain forward pressure on the slide and pull the trigger.
Release the trigger and the slide should come off to the front.
 

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Lancer5AWM

1) Muzzle face of slide is is aprox 1/4 " in front of rear face of grip module, it is not as if in normal state.
2) Tip of barrle is 1" in front of outside face of slide.

I will post picture asap.

So it sounds like the slide is about a quarter inch forward of its normal closed position. And the barrel is sticking out of the slide about an inch. Do we have that right?
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Pix.

Last option: a fresh hacksaw blade, lubricated by your tears. ;)

I'm sure this can get unstuck, eventually. Pix, pix, and more pix.
 
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