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You mean there's no need to use the resizing die after they've been fired?I have never had to resize a 357 SIG case with over 5,000 reloaded.
You mean there's no need to use the resizing die after they've been fired?I have never had to resize a 357 SIG case with over 5,000 reloaded.
Only with rifle rounds used in regular bolt guns. The action has sufficient mechanical advantage to chamber the cases reliably. I don't think you can do neck sizing (full length sizing required) with straight - pull collet - style bolt guns, much less with autoloaders....if the neck of the case is resized to hold the bullet, you may be good to go.
I remember you saying you sorted your brass, along the lines of Glock Brass / SIG Brass. You probably won't need this tool.I've never used a "Bulge Buster." Have never seen the need or benefit, even with most of my brass going through a Glock.
Not sure how to describe the "Bulge Buster." It doesn't really fall under any of your typical die types.I guess I'm thinking the "Bulge Buster" is the full length sizing die, the case passes through the die the entire length. With the 3 piece die, do you get the sizing the full length of the case?
Me too...That is how I understood the description. Rifle set contain both full and neck resizing, pistol set contains only full length sizing die.
I got the "Bulge Buster" as well as some other Small - Based Dies as insurance, based on hearsay that Dillon Dies were inadequate for proper sizing.No need for the "Bulge buster" in my experience or even carbide dies really.
In my mind, I was going to have a go at it like I normally would with .308 Winchester brass...For some reason, there seems to be a lot of concern over how difficult apparently is to reload 357 SIG, I just don't see it myself.![]()
My first few attempts agree with you entirely :lol:The Dillon dies are 150% IMO. They resize bulged cases right down to the base without any extra effort. I have resized "Glocked" 10mm and 40 in my Dillon dies and the bulge was totally gone.