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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I recently got into 300 Blackout and I am trying to do the math of build vs buy.

It looks like I have 3 options.
Option 1 - Buy loaded 300 for around 51c per round and reload the brass after shooting. This gives me a proper headstamp on the brass.

Option 2 - Buy reformed brass which will have either a 223 or 556 headstamp for around 41c per round

Option 3 - Buy 223/556 brass and reform it myself for around 25c per round.

Remember I am only talking brass except for the first option. It would seem that Option 1 is the best deal and leaves me with properly stamped brass. The last option is the best from a cost standpoint, but requires a lot more time on my part.

Anyone have experience in this area?
 

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Converting brass in any quantity is pretty time consuming. Once I had my main batch done I worked on the rest when I was bored and had spare time. A little here and there. I get my once fired mil brass from Everglades, 79$ for 1000 which is 12.5¢ each but its entirely unprocesses aside from a ceramic tumbling to clean them a little. Most of my orders have been predominantly Lake City. This last batch was mostly Federal Cartridge. Im not sure whats different but it seems this batch of federal is brittle or something? Im getting about 30-50 per 500 loss with strange fracturing in the neck area and some splitting. About 30 others where the primer split the cover off leaving the inner part in the shell. I think that may have been some that got wet though, saw minor corrosion in a few pockets. No issues at all with Lake City i got from them.

556 223 Military Once Fired Brass
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The brass came in from Graf. Great deal.

Now to source some bullets. There are so many options on .308 its hard to decide. I think I am going to start with a 125 gr ballistic tip and use H110 to begin.

Lots of options here to be sure.
 

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There are a lot of good deals right now to buy, so I would buy.
 

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I know you already bought some, but.....

I make mine from LC 5.56 brass. I bought a JIG off Amazon and it only adds ONE step to the prep that I would otherwise do to the 5.56 brass and that is to run it through the chop saw.

The headstamp isn't really an issue since LC brass doesn't have the caliber listed for NATO brass.

I bought some Federal 300 BLK brass and ended up have to do as much prep to it as when I make it so I'll NEVER buy it again.

5.56 NATO brass is basically free from the range so......

Have fun! I have loaded the 125 Ballistic Tips and they are great. As are many others.

I got a deal on Midway a while back: 1000 150 grain Speer SP for like $130

They shoot great! A shade under 2000 fps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I suspect that I will end up building my own at some point, especially if I find that I end up shooting it a lot.
 

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...I make mine from LC 5.56 brass. I bought a JIG off Amazon and it only adds ONE step to the prep that I would otherwise do to the 5.56 brass and that is to run it through the chop saw....
RatBike, I also did this.

I push the once fired 556/223 (LC. Fed, PMC, Privi etc..) brass through the jig mounted on the cheap Harbor Freight Mini Chop-saw one after another so that the one that was just cut is launched into box on the side on the table by the new piece of brass I just inserted. I set the chop saw cut about .010" over the final length and then, After resizing, finish to final SAMMI length with a Little Crow trimmer chucked in a drill.
https://littlecrowgunworks.com/product/worlds-finest-trimmer-wft/?v=7516fd43adaa

and adjust this using a L.E. Wilson Case gauge.

You can process A LOT of free brass like this. And its VERY good brass. I just sort by headstamp and have made some really impressive Match grade ammo.

I personally would recommend the Redding (or Forster's Match grade) 300BLK Sizing Dies, I use Imperial case wax for the initial re-sizing, run it through the Little Crow trimmer, deburr and Clean. Done. :D

You may need to swage the primmer pockets if using NATO or crimped brass. Otherwise you will be constantly crushing primers. I use this https://www.dillonprecision.com/super-swage-600_8_8_25263.html
you only have to do this once, of course.

I have been getting 7-10 reloads out of once fired re-formed LC/NATO 5.56 brass before case neck splits start showing up.

OR...

Get some from here Processed Brass : All Weather Arms - 300 Blackout AR upper, Once fired Processed brass, hunting suppressors, NFA dealer

Mike is a super nice guy, retired Army Aviator pilot. He has very reasonable and honest prices. And happens to live 10 min from my house :)

He also recently lost his son, SFC, Andrew Weathers 2nd Bat. 7th Special Forces Group in 2014 in the war on terror. :salute2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the detail.

I will contact Mike. I really hate to hear he lost his son. My son is in the Navy and luckily in a support role (works on aircraft), but will soon be going on deployment. My heart really goes out to Mike today.

I may set up a deal like you have set up. But for now, I would rather give my money to someone like Mike!
 

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Thanks for the detail.

I will contact Mike. I really hate to hear he lost his son. My son is in the Navy and luckily in a support role (works on aircraft), but will soon be going on deployment. My heart really goes out to Mike today.

I may set up a deal like you have set up. But for now, I would rather give my money to someone like Mike!

It is $$ to setup, but when I started doing this, I could not find 300BLK brass cheap (or at all). And I had access to lots of free 556/223 brass. So it was a cost benefit in the long run for me.
Now, however, since 300BLK is much more ubiquitous, price and availability has greatly improved. Now I would probably just buy the brass.

Thanks, I know Mike will appreciate your business.
 

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Carolina Brass...1,000 for 180. Once fired Lake City .223.

I've bought 2,000 cases, not a problem with any. They all look good after firing.

Plus, as others have said, pick up the 223/556 freebies laying around.
 
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