SIG Talk banner

21 - 29 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
P320 RX, P365 SAS
Joined
·
30 Posts
On the SAS the slide take down pin has no lever on it. Only a coin slot.
I found a nickle coin fits the pins slot well and is big enough to hold on to.
When you are removing the slide and cleaning the pistol it is very easy to not notice that this pin gets rotated.
With no lever to see that it is out of position you will not be able to get the slide back in place.
Most of the time you will find the slot has rotated to the up and down position.
The slot in the pin needs to be running left and right aligned with the bottom of the slide.
With the slide off, you will need to push the slide lock up when you are rotating the take down pin to the horizontal position.
This is easily seen when there is a lever
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
Here's another one, cut to the chase of installing the manual safety without wading through the total disassembly video:



Unfortunately, the video is filmed over a dark background and is mainly out of focus during the most critical juncture: that being the orientation of the detent plunger in the hole on the safety lever. The smaller, stepped down end of the plunger is inserted into the hole / spring first (which is not even mentioned in the video).

Don’t be like me and ham-fistedly try to jam the tiny plunger in backwards only to have it slip and rocket into outer space, never to be seen again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
486 Posts
I don't have my XL just yet, but I watched the trigger job video. I think there's some valuable information in there, but I think I'd opt to pick and choose which areas to polish that were covered in that video.

Anything with the sear surface or where that contacts the striker I think is a no-go. 1) because it will get polished just by shooting some rounds 2) I wouldn't want to screw with the geometry at all, even just with polishing compound 3) because polishing off the surface hardness treatment could leave softer metal exposed underneath. Whether 3) is true or not, I don't know but I think it's good general advice.

But depending on how my XL feels when it arrives the trigger bar and firing pin plunger could be good candidates to clean up a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts



Removing the plastique magazine release stop (wedge) is not as easy as this vid makes it look, with either the Allen wrench or exacto knife method, without breaking or damaging it. Unfortunately, the “wedge” is made of extremely soft, flimsy plastic, prone to damage when contacted by the blade or the wrench. Hard for me to have confidence in this piece since it has the structural integrity of a piece of a Cracker Jack toy.

At any rate, if you want to remove the magazine release, you would be wise to replace the plastic release stop with a new part, flimsy as it is, which means you have to buy a whole magazine release assembly with spring, stop and release rod for @ $20.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
Thank you, that non-snag lever is a bit tricky for me still. I'm wishing I hadn't opted for SAS now, after this,, and especially after my first day at the range, consistent off-center. I'm no expert marksman by any stretch, so I need a lot more time with this little cutie before I can determine it isn't my technique with a subcompact, but given it was the same spot I was hitting, I have to wonder if the site needs adjusted.
Thanks for the welcome and support.
Beth
OMG,I almost went for SAS.
So glad it was back order,so I canceled it.
Really look for P365X now..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Any idea why the decocker on my 226 broke and what’s involved in fixing it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Top