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Since you asked

You happen to have a picture of the area you are talking about, would you? I get the "gritty" trigger sometimes too, and I'd like to see where exactly you are talking about needs the good lubing.

Thanks.


Here are my thoughts on some lube points in the P238/938 - I prefer grease (TW25b) in these area as it tends to stay put.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Would like to clarify that these suggested lube points don't represent a complete list of lube points for the P238/938. They were mentioned because accessing these points (except for the upper ejector) requires removal of the left grip panel and may be overlooked by some in their maintenance routine.
 

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Newbie questions

Would like to clarify that these suggested lube points don't represent a complete list of lube points for the P238/938. They were mentioned because accessing these points (except for the upper ejector) requires removal of the left grip panel and may be overlooked by some in their maintenance routine.
As a new owner, I have cleaned my P238 twice (brand new and after 1st use, even though I didn't have time to use the full 50 rounds) per the instructions that came with it. That said....

1) I have heard that the P238s can be very temperamental if not cleaned after every use. How often do you all normally perform a routine/basic cleaning on yours? (Certain number of round or after every practice?)

2) I have heard of multiple people who have stripped the grip screws. How often do you lube the internal parts under the grip?

Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and experience!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I perform a basic field strip (remove slide), clean and lube after every range trip. I remove the grip panels and clean and lube the mechanicals about every 4-500 rounds (or sooner if I'm bored).

I use a simple "L" shaped allen wrench (no driver handle) to remove/install the grip screws, and put the long end of the L in the screw and twist on the short end to torque them; this keeps me from over torquing them. Be very careful when starting the screws not to cross thread them.

Hope that helps.
 

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Very helpful, ThnkFrst! Thank you.
(Although, if I am going to be removing the left grip, I will be very tempted to just go ahead and switch grips each time. lol. What a very expensive hobby this is. :-D )
 
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I posted the the following suggestion in another thread, titled "Easy way to lube the sear", and folks seem to like the idea. This sticky thread seems to be an appropriate place for it to reside, so here it is (again):

Maybe everyone else here knows this, but I just recently discovered it. With the slide off the frame, and the hammer cocked, the half-cock hammer notch is easily accessible, and lube can be applied to it.

Then, with the slide back on the frame, repeatedly position the hammer between its half-cock and full-cock notches. That'll transfer lube to the sear notch and hammer full-cock notch.
 

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Thank You !! Picture is very helpful since I just bought a P238 .

Should these points be oiled before the first range visit ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Glad to hear that on both points. Let us know how your new 238 runs for you.
 

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I wouldn't have known about these oil points with out this sticky, which may well have caused problems down the road a ways .. are these oil points also explained in the manual .. I haven't received my P238 yet so manual yet to look at .

Are there any other points that a new P238 owner should know about that may not be explained in the manual ?
 

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As a new shooter and a new owner of a 238 I called Sig to ask about where to lube beyond what the owner's manual and many videos show. I asked about the trigger area and the area of the hammer. I was told that there is a kind of permanent grease in these areas and there is no need to go there. I do wonder how permanent that grease is. I do clean and lube after each session regardless of how many rounds I go through.
 
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